How To Choose The Right Clay Bar For You! – Chemical Guys


– [Joey] Hey, what’s up, guys? Joey here with another episode of “Chemical Guys Detail Garage.” Today in the shop, I
wanna go over clay bars. I’m gonna go over what they are, what they do, and which one is the right one for you. (techno music) All right, guys, so like I was saying a clay bar is a great tool to decontaminate the
surface of your paint. And what that means is when you decontaminate
the surface of your paint, you’re removing the stuff
that’s embedded in the paint, such as grime, rust, industrial fallout. Things that stick to the paint
on a more microscopic level. So with the clay bar, what it does is it helps pull off that grime, embedded contaminations, so it restores that glass-smooth surface and clarity that’s in your paint. So the first clay bar I wanna go over is our light gray clay bar. Now the light gray clay
bar works out amazing for light contaminations
such as on a brand new car or on a maintained car. In this case, on this
Supra here behind me, this car is garage-kept. The owner does take very good care of it. And he stays pretty on
top of his maintenance, washes, and detailing. So for a car like this that
gets very light contamination such as like a brand new car, your own car, or a car that you just
picked off the dealership, they can have light
levels of contamination, which you wanna make sure
that you can decontaminate it so that before you wax it, before you apply any
kind of ceramic coatings, vinyl wraps, you wanna make sure that
the surface of your paint is completely smooth and rid
of any kind of contaminates that are bonded to the surface. So a light clay bar is
gonna allow you to go ahead and lightly glide over the
paint nice and smoothly without running into
any kind of rough feel or contamination, which like I said, is usually
meant for brand new cars or newer cars that are maintained, so that you’re not there all
day with like a sticky clay bar pulling off heavy contamination. That’s the reason why we
carry a variety of clay bars. So in this sense, like I said, we’ll be using the light clay bar so that we can gently
glide over the surface nice and quickly without
any kind of resistance or any kind of potential for scratching or marring the paint. All right, guys. So now we’re up close and personal, so now I’m gonna show you
the process of what to do and how to actually use this clay bar. So the first thing you
wanna do is open it up. So you can open it up
from your packaging here, and you’ll see that once I pull it off, it’s a big block of clay. It’s nice. It’s tangible. You can squish it. It’s nice and smooth and soft. So what you wanna do first is, believe me when I tell you this, take off these plastics. Don’t be the person that
doesn’t take ’em off because these plastics can
potentially mar your paint since it’s not a smooth surface. You wanna make sure you
take off these plastics. Don’t be that person that doesn’t because if you don’t, you can potentially mar the paint and you might have to be
able to polish it out. Next thing you wanna do is you don’t wanna use this
whole entire clay bar on your vehicle. What you wanna do is, you wanna cut a chunk of this. So what I like to do is, I like to cut it in half. And since this is a nice soft one, it’s very easy to go ahead and break. I’ll break it in half. I’ll store this piece away. And I’ll also break this piece in half because a clay bar, like I was saying… Let’s just get ’em out right there. You can store this for a later date or if you need to go
ahead and grab some more. But this light little piece of clay bar is gonna be enough for me to
go ahead and do this vehicle because like I said, it’s lightly contaminated so this is more than
enough for me to go ahead and get this entire vehicle done. So the next thing you wanna do is you wanna grab your clay bar and you kinda want to
knead it out a little. Kind of into a little patty. Big enough so that you can kinda grab it with your forefingers here. I’ll show you that in a second. And I don’t know if I mentioned this, but the reason I’m wearing gloves is because I like to stay protected, just because I don’t like getting any kind of chemicals
on my hands and believe me, when you do this, you’re gonna
get chemical on your hands, which is our next point and topic, which is our clay lubricant. Clay Luber is gonna allow you to go ahead and glide over your paint so that you don’t risk
any type of marring. It’s a synthetic lubricant that’s just gonna help
you glide left and right because believe it or not, you’re not gonna use this dry as is because you’re not gonna
get far without this. So that’s our specialty clay lubricant. That’s what you wanna go ahead and utilize as your source of synthetic lubricant for clay barring your vehicle. So now that I’ve kinda morphed my clay bar into a light little patty, like I said, I can kinda grab it
with my forefingers here and it’s not gonna slip off my hand. So now that that’s all said and done, I do wanna mention that on this car, we did wipe it down prior to this video. We wiped it down with the waterless wash. And just with any other
clay barring in your life, you wanna make sure that
the surface is clean. So either wash the vehicle, or you can go ahead and wipe
it down with a detail spray or waterless wash,
depending on dirty it is. So like I said, this
is the clay lubricant. What you wanna go ahead and do is you wanna go ahead and start
off in a two by two section. So what I wanna do is I’m gonna go ahead and
spray the section here, and I’m gonna go ahead and
coat it nice and evenly. I’m not gonna go ahead and
just spray one light spray. I’m actually gonna go
ahead and do about two, maybe three, four, and I’m also gonna spray my clay bar just to add that added lubrication. And what you wanna gently do is just glide your clay bar left and right. You’re gonna glide it left and right. You don’t wanna mimic any
kinda circular motions because if you pick up any kind of grime, you could potentially mimic that motion and cause a swirl mark effect throughout the whole entire
course of the vehicle. So simply glide it left and right. I’m not adding any pressure. I’m simply using my palm just to kind of hold this clay bar down. And I’m also do a crosshatch
motion and go up and down. Keep in mind, we are indoors so one quick tip that I
do wanna give you guys is always clay bar indoors because what I see people do is they’ll do an area and they’ll
spray the clay lubricant throughout half of their hood, and by the time they do one section and they wanna move on
to the next section, the heat from the sun has already dried up the clay lubricant that was on the surface and it rendered it useless. So now you have to spray more, use the clay bar, and you just wasted product for no reason. So don’t use the clay
lubricant and or the clay bar under direct sunlight
if you wanna go ahead and make the best use
out of your products. So now I’m gonna go ahead
and set my clay bar down. I’ll lay that down on the plastic. And then, like I said, I didn’t really mention
this but once your paint, when you’re using the
clay bar on the paint and it just feels like glass and it’s going left and
right very smoothly, that’s just an indication that you know that that area’s done and that you can go ahead
and stop clay barring and wipe it off with your
nice microfiber towel. So in this case, I’m gonna grab my towel and wipe off the excess
of the clay lubricant. I like to flip it around
just to buff off any product. And then you can feel your paint, and if your paint feels glass-smooth and you don’t really hear
any kinda rough feel, you’ll know you’re done and you can move on to the
next part of your vehicle. You wanna make sure that
you’re using clay luber because I see a lot of
people out there that they’ll say, “Oh, you know, you can just use a mixture
between soap and water.” Sure. Soap and water may be
considered a lubricant, but if you’re using a strong soap that could potentially
dry out your clay bar, dry it out, make it rough, and that can be a factor
for scratching your paint. So I highly don’t recommend that you don’t use any
soap and water mixtures because like I said, you could potentially
dry out that clay bar, which you don’t wanna waste money on having to buy a brand new clay bar just because you ruined it
by using soap and water. All right, guys, so now that we finished
the hood of the Supra, we’re gonna move on to a different vehicle because I wanna show you
guys different levels of contamination and why you would use a different grade of clay
bar on a different vehicle. So like I mentioned, this car only needed a light clay bar, but there are some cases
where you might need a medium, and or a worst case scenario, a heavy clay bar for
that rough contamination. All right, guys, so now we’re outdoors because we wanna go ahead and
go over our next clay bar, which is our original. Now what does original mean? Original is a blend between a
light and a medium clay bar. So this works out great
for maintained cars that are mainly kept outdoors, such as this 4Runner here. Now the owner of this 4Runner here actually lives in an area where they also get a lot
of industrial fallout. Pretty much means that you
get a lot of contaminates that kind of stick to the paint. And when you look at it here, you may not necessarily see it, but you can definitely
hear it when you go ahead and kinda rub your hand over the paint. Check this out. (rubbing sound) So you hear it? It sounds pretty rough. Not super rough, but enough for us to
kinda have to up our game and the clay bar. So like I said, the original is a mixture
between a light and a medium, so that gives you a nice pull
between a smooth clay bar and that stickiness so
that you can pull off this level of contamination. So same thing. I’ve already pulled it out the packaging. I got myself a little piece right here. Same thing. I’m gonna go ahead and knead
it around into a little patty. And you can see this one’s
kind of a bit stickier as compared to the first
one, the light one. It’s kinda sticking to my gloves here, but bear with me. Stretch that out nicely, get a nice even little patty here. So now that I have my clay bar kneaded into a nice little patty, same process. I’m gonna go ahead and
grab our clay lubricant and I’m gonna go ahead
and saturate the area just nicely enough so that
I don’t get any friction. And something you might hear different with this clay bar right here, and I’ll try to get
the mic close on there, but when you start clay barring on a contaminated surface like this, it kinda sounds like
you’re scratching the paint because it sounds very rough. Here. (rubbing sound) I’m not applying any pressure. I’m doing the exact same
process as I did on the Supra. Left and right in the little two by two section. And also go up and down. And you wanna do this until, like I said, the paint feels nice and smooth and you don’t really hear
that rough raspy feeling that you’re kinda feeling
when you’re first doing it. And there might be some
patches in the paint where you have a little
bit more concentration. I still feel this area is kind of rough as compared to like the surrounding area that I just finished. But that’s common when
you’re using it on these flat panels such as like the hood, the roof, the trunk of your car, because those are the areas
that kinda get the most fallout and the most grime that settles on there. So once you’ve done a little section, I’ll go ahead and wipe that off. Same process. Wipe it right off. Not a complicated process. You’re just wiping off
the excess of the product. Then you can feel your paint. It’s nice and glass-smooth. My fingers are still kind
of stained with the product, but you’ll hear that there’s no noises coming from the paint. It’s just like glass. All right, guys, so you guys saw I made a
little bit of a boo boo and I dropped the clay bar, but I actually did that on purpose because I wanna go over a specific point, which is if you drop your
clay bar do not use it. Don’t go back into your paint. Do not resume clay barring your paint because check this out. You get these fine rocks, you have these fine debris
that land onto the clay bar, which could potentially scratch the paint. This clay bar, like I said, it’s like a piece of gum. It’s very sticky so it’s
gonna pull off that grime. But I you drop it on the floor, it’s also gonna pick
up whatever’s on there. The fine debris, the
rocks, the pieces of grass, you know, hell, maybe you might pick up a
ant while you’re down there, but you don’t wanna use this. What you wanna do is get this, toss it out, and you wanna grab yourself a
brand new piece of clay bar. Like I mentioned before, you wanna grab your clay
bar chunks at a time. You don’t wanna grab the whole thing because believe me, if I had
the whole clay bar in my hand, I would be pretty upset that
I dropped that whole chunk and I had to throw that whole chunk away. So that’s why I still have
some clay bar here in my packet because if that happened to me, I can just go ahead and
grab a brand new piece and I continue with the
rest of the vehicle. All right, guys, so now that we’ve finished
this part of the car we’re gonna go ahead and continue doing the rest of the vehicle on a different day. And we’re gonna go ahead and
proceed to our next vehicle, which is our medium clay bar, and we’ll show you guys a perfect example of what a level of medium
contamination looks like. All right, guys, so we’re back with our next car. And one thing I do want
to reiterate real quick is we are outdoors. I know at the beginning of the video I told you guys to do this indoors, but it is a gloomy day and we’re only doing a
section of this hood at a time just to show you guys the
level of contamination. So that leads us on to our next clay bar which is our medium grade clay bar, which like I said, pulls off medium levels contamination. So for those heavier contamination levels you can actually see
it on this white cars. You’ll see like little yellow
brown specks on the paint, which on this white paint looks very nasty because you have all
these tiny little specks that look brown, that look yellow. It kinda looks like you have a bunch of little
bird poop stains on your hood when in reality it’s just
that industrial fallout that bonds to the paint and
can’t easily just be washed with a simple car wash. You actually have to use
a medium grade clay bar to go ahead and pull off
that level of contamination. I mean, if you don’t
believe me, check this out. Just hear this. (rubbing sound) Sounds very bad. You can see very on a microscopic level that you have all the little
specks and like I said, it just doesn’t look good. And on this white car
they’re extremely noticeable because it is white and
what is there to look if it’s not just white, you know? So I’m gonna go ahead and pretty much use the
clay bar and the lubricant just as the same way as
I used it on the Supra and the 4Runner. You’re gonna go ahead and spray a nice even
coat onto the surface. Do a nice little two by two section. Spray your clay bar. And like I said, when you’re going this, I don’t know if it catches it on camera, but it sounds pretty raspy
when you first do it. But as you keep going, check this out. It just gets smoother, and you don’t necessarily
hear that rough feel anymore. And you wanna keep on doing this until the surface is smooth. Another thing that you
wanna pay attention to is since, like I said, it is a white car, you’ll see all these tiny little brown and yellow specks into the paint, so if those specks are still in the paint, even after the paint feels smooth, keep attacking that area, keep hitting it with your clay bar so that you knock off that contamination because that is a contaminate
that can be pulled off with your clay bar. So keep using the clay bar
until that’s fully knocked off and then you can move on onto the next section of your vehicle. All right, guys, so as I’m getting prepared
to wrap up this panel I’m gonna go ahead and
pick up my clay bar. Check this out. So I’m not sure if it
catches it on camera, but the clay bar, you’ll have some patches of brown, you know, I’ll show you guys. I’ll flip this clay bar around. See this right here? This is your clay bar then. This is how it was before we started clay
barring the surface. So you see the gray clay bar, it’s a lot lighter as
compared to this right here. You have more of a brown, yellowish film that looks very nasty. And that’s all the contamination that you’re pulling off your clay bar. So when your clay bar gets
to this certain point, what I like to do and
what I recommend doing is re-kneading your clay bar. So what I mean by that is you wanna go ahead and gold it inwards, outwards, however you wanna do it. I usually kinda ball it up
into a little ball first. And then I knead it
out into a fresh patty. And just like that, I got myself a brand new surface
of clay bar to work with. And you wanna keep on doing
that until the point where your clay bar cannot be
re-kneaded into a fresh surface. So I’ll show you guys
a little example here. This was a tiny little piece. So you’ll see since I did re-knead it there’s still the backside, which has dirt and contamination which is still in the clay bar. You don’t wanna use this. So I was to go ahead and
re-knead it and that came out, I would re-knead it again until I had a nice fresh surface like so. If I keep re-kneading it and it keeps on getting to that point where it’s just like that dirt showing up, you can see that fine
layer of dirt and grime and contamination that’s on the clay bar. Continue to re-knead your clay bar until you go ahead and
re-knead it to a fresh surface. If the clay bar cannot be
re-kneaded into a fresh surface toss this piece out and get
yourself a brand new piece. Like I said, that way you
don’t waste your clay bar by using the entire thing at once. And so if you drop it, you
don’t have to throw it out. So use your clay bar at pieces at a time. This is my best recommendation to you guys so that you guys don’t waste your clay bar and you guys don’t have to go
out and buy a different one. All right, guys, so we just finished up with
the 4Runner and the Nissan. We’re gonna go ahead and
head over to our last car to go over our heavy clay bar. And trust me, you guys are
in for a treat for this one. All right, guys. We’re here at our final stop, and we’re gonna go ahead and show you guys a level of rough and heavy contamination. So if you go ahead and
check this paint out. Check out this Scion xB. See all that? Dust. I’m gonna go ahead and wipe it right off. Check it out. It’s not dust, guys. That’s contamination. That’s industrial fallout. That’s pretty much the worst
of the worst of the worst that you can every experience. So that right there, you definitely wanna go
with the heavy clay bar. I mean, just… If you can’t see for yourself, just hear it. Check this out. (rubbing sound) No smoothness what so ever. Nothing at all. So with this right here, you wanna use a heavy clay bar because a heavy clay
bar is extremely sticky and it’s gonna pull off
the super embedded grime and contamination that’s on the paint. So like I said, on white colors you see it especially because you have all those
little yellow brown specks and if your paint looks
anything like this, like I said, heavy clay bar. Don’t even bother with the light clay bar. Go straight to heavy. And go ahead and remove that
contamination from your paint. So same process as with all the other cars
that we’ve done today. Spray your clay lubricant, and seriously with this be ample with it. Be generous with the spray. Do not skimp out. Do not spray one spray and try to do that because you’re not gonna get far. With this clay lubricant, be generous with it. I give it about five sprays, and I also spray my clay bar. And check this out. Once I start hitting it, you’ll see right away it starts erasing all those
little yellow brown specks on the paint. Check out the spray lubricant. It’s not even blue anymore. It turned brown. It’s yellow. It’s disgusting. If this is on your paint, you definitely need a heavy
clay bar in your life. Like I said, check this out. I’m just pretty much erasing this grime from the surface with no problem. Left and right. Up and down. And one thing I do wanna mention is like I said, we do have
different grades of clay bar. It’s not because they’re
all the same thing. It’s because they all have a purpose. So like I said, this heavy clay bar helped me
pull off this grime easily. If I were to use the
light clay bar on this, I wouldn’t really get very
far because it’s too smooth to pull off this level of contamination. If I did use a light clay bar, I’d probably be here all day and odds are I’d probably
use up the whole clay bar in order to just do this
one hood of the car. So now that I’ve done an area, I’m gonna go ahead and wipe it off. Check that out. You actually see the
white in the paint again. You don’t see this polka dot leopard print kinda paint anymore. You actually have that
nice bright white color. And you’re ready to go ahead and prep for any kind of paint correction, applying any waxes so
that you can get your ride looking to once what it was before. So not only do you clean the paint but you also restore that full clarity. I mean, check that out. You see the bright white. You can actually see the
reflection on the white versus the yellow, the brown, the rough spots that are on the paint. You don’t even see any type of shine or any type of reflection through that. So if you wanna go ahead and
make your paint shine the best, make sure you clay bar the paint and get it as glass-smooth and
contaminate-free as possible to get those high shine results. Like I said, if you
can’t see those results, you can also feel them. I mean, check it out. If I rub my hand right here, silence. If I go over here, (rubbing sound) the roughest feeling in
the world right there. I’m not gonna go back over here because I don’t wanna contaminate it and scratch up the surface because like I said, this stuff that’s on your paint can be a factor for scratching your paint. So if you don’t know what a clay bar is or if you’ve never done a clay bar before, if you’re just wiping down your paint, odds are, if you’re using like a detail spray or if you’re trying to wax your paint, it’s not gonna bond or it’s not gonna do much good because those waxes, those sealants, those glazes, those ceramic coatings, whatever you wanna do, it’s not gonna bond to
the pores of the paint because they’re all clogged up with all this grime contamination. It’s not gonna work out for you. You’re not gonna get the
results that you want. And it’s gonna be a complete
utterly waste of your time. So clay bar your paint. That’s the first step in
every detailing process no matter what you wanna do. Even if you just wanna wax your car, clay your paint so that
you get the best result. All right, guys, so now we’re done. We’ve decontaminated the surfaces, we showed you guys how to do it, how to use your clay bar
and what to use with it. I’ve explained to you
guys the different grades of clay. Like I said, one clay bar
is not gonna do it all. You have your light clay bar, your OG, you have your medium, you have your heavy, depending on the level of contamination, I hope this video has helped
you kind of understand what contamination looks like,
sounds like, and feels like. So if you have any questions, like I said, refer to your clay bars,
use your best judgment, reach out to us on our social media. If you have any kind of pictures, videos, like I said, reach out to us. We’re here to help you out. If you guys like this video, make sure to give it a thumbs up, and if you haven’t done so already, make sure to subscribe to our channel and turn on post notifications so that you aware and notified whenever we post up a brand new video. My name is Joey. This is “Chemical Guys Detail Garage,” and we’ll see you guys next time. (upbeat music)

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *